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September 2, 2008

Ramappartment

Yesterday was the first day of Ramadan.  All businesses close around 2 or 3 pm.  No eats, drinks, or smokes until sundown.  The evenings, when people can eat, is a time for reflection.  I walked outside around 6 pm and was amazed to see the streets so empty.  On one hand, it is a very special time here, but then again, it can be very frustrating.  Like most holidays, people are excited for the break from the their routines. Then again with all businesses closed, no food, and the daily reality of being surrounded by a bunch crabby Egyptians who are desperate need of a cigarette, it is clear that Ramadan has a down side.  Of course as I am not a Muslim, I do not have to fast - at least at home, and as long as I don't really tell anyone.  In Egypt, everyone must take part in Ramadan within the public sphere, no matter where you are from or what you believe in.

In other news, the apartment hunt has been a catastrophe.  On day one of the hunt, Moss and I looked at about 20 apartments.  We wandered all over the city, speaking with boawabs, haggling over prices and searching for a good deal.  Eventually we found one, a massive three bedroom apartment on the12 floor of a building overlooking the nile.  At about 1,200 US Dollars each month (total), we could easily find a roommate for the 3rd bedroom and be living in luxury for only a little more than we spend now. Of course when we returned the next day, the price was immediately raised to 2,000 USD.   Since the average Egyptian only makes about 100 USD per month, it is automatically assumed that we can pay $2000 if we can pay $1000.  Of course that isn't the case, and after another long night of looking at crappy apartments again, we are back where we started.

Moss has told our landlord that we will not pay rent until some things are fixed, and if they are not repaired, then we are leaving.  That seemed to make a difference.  The phone already works.
And now I'm scrubbing the apartment with great conviction.  If  I'm going to live there, at least till December, then I want it clean.  Right  now I'm going over the whole place with a scouring pad, inch by inch. 

As for finding a new place?  Well at the moment, I'm just not sure what to do. Fortunately I have an interview tomorrow with a refugee services agency... I am looking forward to the distraction.

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