Yesterday I was walking through Zamalek, the expat heavy neighborhood I had lived in when I first moved to Cairo (the island in the Nile, visible in the photo). Mallory and I were walking down the street when some old ladies wearing khaki pocket vests asked us directions for a pizza place often advertised in the tourist guide books. It was sorta funny to hear their mid-western accents and I couldn't help but ask where they were from, which turns out to be "Washington Pennslyvania." They thought it quite unusual that Mallory and I actually live in Cairo, but it was nice talking to them nonetheless.
I'm always amused by people wearing pocket vests. Aid workers and journalists always seem to be wearing these things on television and in the movies. If you watch the movie "Hotel Rwanda," its always these foks running around in khaki, like they are going fly fishing or something. But really, what do you do with a pocket vest? I couldn't help but wonder what an aid worker would need all these pockets for... and more curious what the average tourist in Cairo is going to do with a day bag, a fanny pack, and 27 pockets? The other funny thing I've noticed among aid workers and journalists in Cairo is the "uniform." It was only after a couple months of being in Egypt that I noticed white folks always wearing a black t-shirt and blue jeans whenever they "go into the field." I noticed this at a meeting in Ain Shemz, when I was to meet all the gang leaders and all of us foriegners (I think there were four of us total) were all dressed in the same outfit. Then a couple months later, I watchd a report from a journalist on CNN who was speaking about conditions in a Pakistani refugee camp - yep, he was wearing the same uniform. The funny thing is that this isn't common attire in African countries... so is this what aid workers wear in the middle east? The big question is, why? How does a black t-shirt, blue jeans, and/or a pocket vest make you fit into Islamic society. Now I admit, I sometimes continue to dress like this - and am even dressed like this right now (sans vest) - but mostly because the girlfriend thinks I look cute with my "aid worker uniform." I'm not sure if there much dignity with this reason, but at least it is some sort of basis for my actions.
Lastly, there is one other major aid worker/journalist/tourist fashion. The Indiana Jones outfit. If you go to the pyrmids in Giza, its funny just how many men and women are wearing a white oxford, khaki pants, and a fedora. Too many times in Cairo I've looked down the street - a street bursting with mobile phone dealers, electronic shops, and American fast food venues - only to see a lone British explorer from c. 1904 walking up the street, as if venturing forthe into unknown on some expedition or safari. I keep wanting to ask these guys, anywhere between the age of 20 and 80, "Dude, whats up with the outfit? Did McDonalds not have the chicken sandwhich you wanted so you now need to hunt 'big game' ?"
I will admit that the first time I went to the pyramids, I dressed like Indiana Jones. No hat, jsut khakis and cotton. It was a good time, as I picked up lots of cool rocks and trinkets while walking around, but in the end, I had to leave them because there wasn't a way to carry them all.
If only I had worn a pocket vest.
4 Comments:
Brilliant! And funny as hell. It is always interesting to me how various subcultures develop a 'uniform'. your image of Pennsylvanians in Cairo donning khaki safari vests reminds me of the people i see at Mt.Airy forest. I take my dog there sometimes to run around on the hiking trails and I always see these very urbane people who are equipped for the Appalachian trail. They always have sunglasses and special hats and khaki shorts. My favorites are the people with the long-distance trekking sticks that look like ski poles. Their car is 300 yards away and we are in the inner city. What is it with these people?
So what exactly do you suggest one wears when they go to the Middle East?
Well, the only thing that matters it that you dress modestly. The majority of people in the Mideast and North Africa wear the same style of clothing as found in the US and Europe - polos, tshirts, jeans, khakis, etc. I just advise that you do not wear shorts, and for women to not expose shoulders/cleavage. In very conservative areas (such as in very poor neighborhoods) women should have no skin above the elbow, so 3/4 or long sleeves are better. Otherwise, it doesn't matter how you dress. Sometimes denim is a little hot during the day, but at night it gets very cold. Also, keep in mind that the 'mid east' has lots of different temperatures. If you go to Jordan, for example, dress like you are going to Italy, as the climate is identical - there are no deserts, just lots of green grass and cypress trees. If you are a tourist planning to do lots of shopping, carrying cameras etc, a simple backback/purse/or shoulder bag will meet all your needs just fine. And unless you are laying on the beach, no need for sunsceen etc. And bottled water is available every 5 feet, so no need for a thermos or special equipment. Going to Cairo requires about as much special equipment as going to New York or Cleveland. Have fun!
I am working in Kabul and all the Afghans wear the vest. Mostly because the Punjabi suits don't have pockets. I wear the black shirt, jeans vest thing because well it stays clean. I am out in the field everyday. It is usally three or four days between showers and also it is harder to pick pocket them. The sad thing is though I am stuck in Hijab most days as well so it can get toasty.
Post a Comment